Exposed stone masonry and Mediterranean-style whitewashed walls, wooden tables, tribal wall hangings, a separate fish-market kitchen (guests can watch their fish being cooked), and enormous storm lanterns set the right atmosphere for this upmarket take on village-style Bengali dining. Order a traditional Bengali thali (multicourse meal), served on a silver platter, and give yourself plenty of time to recover; diners tend to leave with full stomachs.
Bengali specialties include a rich, spicy prawn curry (chingri malai), and paturi maach — sliced bekti fish coated with a paste of mustard and green chili, wrapped in a banana leaf, and steamed. For an excellent starter, get kakori kebab (minced lamb kebab) or, if you are looking for something milder, the murgh Wajid Ali (chicken breast pounded, marinated with saffron and other spices, and cooked in a mildly spiced sauce). Leave space for rossogolla payesh, a Bengali dessert made from paneer (cheese) and thickened sweet milk.